Exploration

Sea Wolves Howling on the West Coast of BC

*Sound On* This encounter with wolves was one of the most magical moments of my life. We’d been walking down a remote beach off the west coast of Vancouver Island when up ahead we saw a pack playfully bounding through the intertidal zone and across the driftwood logs. Stopping a good distance away, we watched and waited our turn in awe of these beautiful creatures. One by one they left the beach, leaving one last wolf that started to howl. Soon the whole forest lit up with howls from all around, including from behind us where we hadn’t noticed any animals before.

It’s hard to put into words how powerful and primal an experience this was. Many in our group were brought to tears and I still get goosebumps listening to it again.

Eventually, the last wolf slipped back into the woods, and just like that they vanished, merging with the wilds which they call home.

Canada's Largest Spruce Tree, the San Joseph Spruce - Vancouver Island, BC.

Canada’s largest spruce tree stretches towards the night sky as a full moon rises over northern Vancouver Island. Located near the San Josef River outside of Holberg in Quatsino territory, the San Joseph Spruce, aka ‘San Jo’s Smiley’, measures 255 ft (77.8 m) tall and 14.3 ft (4.36 m) in diameter. Standing at the base of the tree is akin to being a bug beside the foot of a giant elephant (Ian pictured here is 6’4 for scale). Pretty mind-blowing to say the least.

Please take a moment to reflect on the significance of our forest friends and send an instant message calling for their protection. Fine art prints available here.

[o] Canon 5D MKIV, 15mm fisheye, 30-second exposure, headlamp + moonlight, and a little bit of magic.

Hiking the Nootka Trail on the west coast of Vancouver Island, BC

In 2020, a group of friends and I spent a week hiking the incredible Nootka Trail along the west side of Nootka Island in Mowachaht/Muchalaht and Nuchatlaht territory. The 35-kilometer-long coastal hike winds along white sandy beaches with waterfalls, wolves, and whales, and through lush rainforest home to towering cedar and spruce trees. It was a heavenly hike, despite hauling a 60lb bag loaded with heavy camera gear in case we saw wildlife, which we most certainly did! Only took me three years to go through the thousand+ photos but I’m happy to finally share some of my faves.

Despite its amazing natural beauty, the majority of Nootka Island still remains unprotected and threatened by industrial logging. Ancient Forest Alliance is currently working to support local First Nations and their Salmon Parks Initiative which will begin to help conserve some of this spectacular region.

Canada's Most Impressive Tree - Flores Island, Clayoquot Sound, BC

This is huge - literally! I’m thrilled to share images of what may very well be Canada’s most impressive tree. This gargantuan redcedar measures over 17 ft (5 m) wide near its base and 151 ft (46 m) tall. However, unlike most other trees, its trunk gets wider going upwards, culminating in a sprawling fortress-like crown of wooden spires akin to a massive wooden wall of an ancient castle.

This giant could possibly have the largest or near largest wood volume of any tree in Canada for about the first 50 feet of its trunk - the part you see and experience from the ground. This would make it, experientially, perhaps the most impressive tree in Canada, despite other cedars being taller or ranking higher overall.

It grows in a remote region of Flores Island in Ahousaht territory in Clayoquot Sound, BC, and has so far garnered the nickname ‘The Wall’, or ‘ʔiiḥaq ḥumiis’, meaning ‘big redcedar’ in the Nuu-chah-nulth language. The exact location has been asked to be kept private at this time.

I first located and photographed the tree while exploring with my friend, Nathaniel Glickman, as part of my project work as a National Geographic and Royal Canadian Geographical Society Explorer. Approaching it for the first time, I was almost in disbelief that it could be real. The scale of its looming trunk and sprawling canopy was absolutely mind-blowing. It's like a living fortress. In my nearly twenty years of searching for the biggest trees in BC, coming across this one has been the pinnacle of my career thus far.

In the spring of 2023, I returned with Tyson Atleo, Hereditary Representative of the Ahousaht Nation and the Natural Climate Solutions Program Director of Nature United, and members of the Maaqutusiis Hahoutlhee Stewardship Society (MHSS).

Thankfully, the incredible Land Use Vision from the Ahousaht Nation, currently in the late stages of negotiations with the BC government, calls for the protection of 80% of Ahousaht territory, including the ancient forest where this tree is found. This would happen through the creation of new Indigenous Protected and Conserved Areas (IPCAs) to be legislated as Provincial Conservancies by the province.

The BC government must fully fund and support Indigenous-led protection of old-growth across BC, including in the remaining monumental old-growth stands and those identified as most at risk by the province’s science panel, the Technical Advisory Panel. Speak up here.

I commend the Ahousaht Nation for continuing to be such incredible stewards of their lands, which harbour some of the most magnificent ancient forests, trees, and wildlife on Earth. Those interested in exploring their territory near Tofino should consider joining an eco-cultural tour with Ahous Adventures.

See the Ancient Forest Alliance media release, CBC interview and article, and CHEK News video interview.

Carmanah Valley: New Giant Spruce Tree Identified

At 12.5ft wide, over 250ft tall, and with a crown that is a world unto itself, this Sitka spruce may now be the largest known tree in the Carmanah Valley.

We came across it last weekend when myself and some friends were exploring in the park. After a long day of bushwhacking, daylight fading, and snow beginning to fall, its giant, multi-forked canopy caught our eye from a distance. We bumped into another group of big tree seekers before making our way over to this Goliath of the woods, shouting with excitement as we approached it.

Certain trees just enter into a different category of big and this would be one of them. It can be hard to comprehend their incredible age and immense size. To be in their presence is both humbling and inspiring, and fills you with stoke!!

The Carmanah Valley is special place. Protected in the 1990’s after hard fought conservation battles, it is home to some of, if not the the very best, old-growth Sitka spruce stands in the country. It’s also famous for having the tallest tree known in Canada, the Carmanah Giant, which stands 315ft or 95m tall.

With its sweeping valley bottoms and rolling slopes all still intact, it leaves you wondering what else could be out there. For now, this appears to be the biggest, but more could surely be in store. Only time and further exploration will tell!

The Easter egg hunt continues…

Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park

Feeling refreshed after spending five days in the wild and beautiful Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park in Ka:'yu:'k't'h'/Che:k:tles7et'h' First Nations territory on the northwest coast of Vancouver Island. This boat-access only park is home to much wildlife, such as bears, wolves, cougars, eagles, whales, and more. There’s even some surf to be had on with the right swell! Here are some photos from the trip. June, 2021.

Fairy Creek Headwaters in the Snow

A gigantic, ancient yellow cedar tree dubbed ‘Titania’ in the unprotected headwaters of Fairy Creek near Port Renfrew. Logging company Teal-Jones is looking to clearcut this forest.

The magical ancient forests of Fairy Creek in the snow. These giant yellow cedars - which can live to be upwards of 2000 years old - are what logging company Teal-Jones is after.

Road construction into the headwaters of this unlogged valley near Port Renfrew in Pacheedaht territory in August 2020 sparked what has now become the longest running blockade movement in BC’s history.

Today the RCMP announced they will be moving in to forcibly remove people who are not only standing up for the protection of Fairy Creek but all of BC’s endangered old-growth forests.

Premier John Horgan and the BC NDP must stop this escalation of the War in the Woods by deferring logging where their own report says they should (the high productivity and at-risk old-growth); committing significant funding for the sustainable economic development of First Nations communities as an alternative to old-growth logging; allocating funding to support workers and communities to transition to a value added, second-growth forest industry; and creating a dedicated Natural Lands Acquisition Fund to purchase and protect endangered ecosystems on private lands.

The polarization of this issue as a jobs vs. environment must end for the sake of both the people and our planet.

MAKE YOUR VOICES HEARD! Use our Contact Decision Makers page here: https://www.ancientforestalliance.org/contact-decision-makers/

Loup Creek: Exploring for Ancient Giants

In March, I identified a spectacular grove of unprotected ancient giants along Loup Creek near Port Renfrew in Pacheedaht territory. This region was heavily logged in the 1970s and 80s, save for a strip of old-growth along the river. Most of the old-growth that remains today along Loup Creek is protected within an Old Growth Management Area and a Wildlife Habitat Area (WHA) for marbled murrelets. But a prime section (pictured below) containing dozens and dozens of ancient redcedars, giant amabalis fir, and Douglas-fir trees was left unprotected. While bushwhacking, we also spotted ribbons marked "Falling Boundary" and "Road Location", indicating potential future logging plans by Teal-Jones.

The BC government is currently working to expand WHAs for marbled murrelets. We've recommended to the Ministry of Forests that this grove should be added to the adjacent WHA, ensuring a contiguous stretch of old-growth is protected along the river, but we don't know whether they will listen.

Tell BC Forests Minister Doug Donaldson to enact both immediate and longer-term, science-based solutions for ancient forests by: 1) Emailing him at: FLNR.Minister@gov.bc.ca. 2) Tagging him on Twitter using @DonaldsonDoug 3) Phoning his office at: 250-387-6240